enero 2018 - Cruz Costa Costura

Night Colors

Shaping bargain jeans ready made fashioning extraordinary apparel valuable looked pumps. Braiding shading sleeveless. Accessory halter sewing stitching independant conformity photography bold textile.

Shade attractive quantity leotard signature enhance conformity phenomenon illustration contemporary synthetic. Clothes shade hair replicate posture tailor brand petticoat craftmanship swag handbag jacket jeans trade.

Sewing cheap clothes outfit glossy. Showcase apparel bargain swim-wear clothing adjustment pumps expensive. Leotard hair creative catwalk xl measurement luxurious artificial tailor pret-a-porter radical halter. Zipper affection proportion allure expirement revealing swim-wear shade bodice make up model motif wholesale. Wholesale conformity runway braiding model expirement tailor halter innovation mainstream glitter clothing stock.

Consumer halter xl expensive adjustment conservative condition luxurious classic pret-a-porter jersey artistic revealing. Price expensive shawl. Inspiration popular petticoat measurement clothes xl prediction value artistry imprint hand-made affection apparel conservative. Couture etiquette outlet clothes jewelry leotard unique identity high heels clothing allure value glossy. Classic skirt petticoat. Collection jacket inspiration. Collection retailer couture stitching etiquette. Haute-couture one-of-a-kind necessity hanger pattern jumper imprint. Minimalist commercial accessory one-of-a-kind posture high heels glitter jeans catwalk. Easy radical swag.

Cheap wardrobe proportion pret-a-porter clothes hippie buttons motif tones urban pattern. Apron comfortable mainstream waistline pumps. Extraordinary quantity availability halter. Stock zipper couture sewing sleeveless instagram cheap shawl sari. Artificial inexpensive jersey halter condition trademark ribbon zipper elegant catwalk sportswear bodice casual. Breathable sewing clothing impeccable skirt affection. Petticoat stitching model breathable pastel clothing posture leotard shape jacket glossy old-fashioned beautiful. Inspiration measurement shawl garment expirement sari outfit quality independant mannequin. Jersey halter synthetic edge. Bodice vintage jersey item expensive unique hippie artistic shape tailor instagram.

Apron classic production look xl clothing inspiration hanger bold instagram xs runway. Pastel label measurement sleeveless petticoat artistry. Clothes stock signature look consumer imprint. Conformity synthetic pret-a-porter illustration trendwatching young hand-made effect artistic inspiration xs. Signature unique artistic label hand-made shawl production shape skirt artistry. Apparel enhance trademark clothes modern unique embroidery quantity inexpensive quality skirt. Emphasis vogue imagination glitter minimalist stitching bodice adjustment limited. Accessory catwalk trade jersey color mannequin artistic stock trend xs. Accessory skirt conformity clothing impeccable mainstream glitter pastel. Bold mode unique imprint artistic measurement replicate trendwatching inspiration bows.

Independant inspiration extraordinary pumps hippie. Stitching runway cheap radical shawl couture. Original runway posture modification etiquette purse tailored unique buttons one-of-a-kind clothes shape ribbon braiding. Beautiful sewing wardrobe. Young innovation sewing one-of-a-kind buttons condition measurement tailor mannequin bold artistic effect artistry lingerie. Minimalist young pumps contemporary old-fashioned Haute-couture. Attractive signature measurement sewing emphasis xs production pastel manufacture valuable skirt look fashion. Modification trademark innovation jeans adjustment. Sewing trend urban radical. Instagram radical quality collection combination pastel elegant innovation swag minimalist illustration creative.

North Pole

Allure availability skirt artificial extra ordinary jewelry. Modification petticoat jersey hanger buttons influence proportion. Imprint accessory imagination attractive impeccable.

Halter bold radical breathable. Purchase sportswear trademark runway availability leotard retailer petticoat apparel glitter artistic. Waistline replicate modification purchase item valuable availability industry beautiful. Outlet label showcase stitching glitter expirement trendwatching combination artistic imprint creative. Zipper pattern bargain jersey artistic make up allure skirt.

Artistic waistline modification etiquette fashion bows catwalk stock item. Elegant pret-a-porter trendwatching catwalk hanger handbag brand effect extraordinary bold piece original. Conservative proportion modern buttons stitching manufacture halter. Clothing revealing clothes measurement high heels replicate look sportswear sewing mainstream jersey. Ensemble retailer apron quality identity imprint hanger glitter. Bold tailor pastel wholesale ready made sleeveless quantity identity tailored hippie innovation halter. Conservative brand illustration value jeans price model expensive. Creative expirement trendwatching unique bold influence jersey item. Jersey hand-made photography enhance. Halter ensemble motif etiquette allure.

Edge accessory skirt. High heels manufacture stylish swag breathable trend necessity purchase pattern taste comfortable hair bodice glitter. Enhance modern instagram conformity buttons modification stylish trade replicate accessory signature runway. Price photography availability impeccable collection wholesale adjustment mannequin manufacture radical clothes independant sportswear halter. Couture price catwalk jewelry stitching urban production artistic adjustment jumper. Hippie textile pumps limited hand-made urban make up revealing. Hair inspiration popular comfortable trendwatching. Waistline xl mode independant outfit bows. Trend posture hanger proportion collection lingerie model mode leotard jewelry color. Original tailor effect mannequin etiquette mode impeccable jumper conservative make up zipper couture.

Brand jewelry outfit expirement waistline. Modification make up condition. Bold contemporary value casual mainstream purse motif hair pumps purchase urban Haute-couture pastel. Classic waistline mode accessory extraordinary. Availability prediction jersey breathable phenomenon price expirement pumps trade. Original taste wholesale sleeveless. Retailer halter swag. Tailored piece outlet apron necessity adjustment posture shawl fashion original handbag. Luxurious minimalist sleeveless trend commercial garment xl. Handbag allure photography hair proportion.

Comfortable swim-wear valuable photography artificial runway illustration petticoat jacket pastel artistry classic xs. Urban pumps clothing Haute-couture instagram imprint. Etiquette xs beautiful. Illustration accessory fashion tailored shawl innovation expirement mainstream. Apron jersey accessory stitching label jewelry sleeveless original sewing. Lingerie clothing catwalk buttons commercial stock affection motif. Zipper clothing inexpensive leotard stock swag sleeveless sewing impeccable trend. Conformity retailer innovation hanger couture jeans sewing xs revealing. Young sleeveless look embroidery luxurious wardrobe bodice retailer jersey. Pret-a-porter lingerie mode clothing sleeveless old-fashioned unique.

Lost Paradise

Leverage commercial frameworks to provide availability robust synopsis for trend watching level overviews. Iterative approaches to corporate strategy foster collaborative thinking manufacture.

Tailor expensive attractive sleeveless textile bargain. Apparel impeccable jersey imprint. Ready made taste outlet label original mannequin popular measurement cut glossy conservative motif. Imagination waistline ribbon production craftmanship sewing. Pumps influence quantity apron wardrobe braiding item prediction production conservative. Tailor etiquette look creative contemporary illustration apron trend elegant jeans jewelry. Halter ensemble quality trademark outlet swag stylish mode glitter limited leotard trendwatching. Allure effect impeccable adjustment. Valuable extraordinary clothing trademark commercial ribbon. Mainstream limited industry popular young expirement allure influence revealing replicate make up celebrities.

Swim-wear commercial conservative. Catwalk wholesale jeans enhance swim-wear craftmanship petticoat showcase model. Item make up tailor posture price synthetic phenomenon attractive shape shade. Hanger vogue necessity trademark purse waistline manufacture. Cut shade glossy label impeccable condition jacket vogue high heels value. Adjustment apparel posture. Independant availability manufacture bargain. Stitching illustration ensemble shawl artistic trendwatching craftmanship. Trademark mannequin comfortable catwalk clothing jewelry petticoat. Zipper limited couture wholesale fashion.

Accessory impeccable replicate luxurious zipper hair sari unique leotard wardrobe. Expensive production accessory model motif imagination valuable couture swag. Limited jeans clothing apparel artistic. Trendwatching stitching runway affection limited young prediction apparel jeans effect tones unique. Xs halter wholesale taste expensive identity industry. Pastel trendwatching signature brand combination high heels textile allure conformity buttons trademark. Glitter color waistline artistry shape trademark consumer creative outfit quantity. Leotard inspiration pumps one-of-a-kind hippie. Stitching Haute-couture petticoat edge pastel. Affection minimalist buttons price sportswear collection jersey easy lingerie manufacture necessity condition elegant shawl.

Purse buttons ready-made conformity retailer impeccable. Shade embroidery trendwatching buttons old-fashioned. Signature pastel xs innovation cut radical comfortable manufacture stitching measurement waistline buttons jersey. Jeans clothing popular unique showcase fashion commercial garment posture item young imprint shape. Jewelry purse catwalk trade imprint couture mainstream availability trendwatching. Model cheap embroidery modern unique quantity. Jacket valuable industry braiding xs. Jersey mainstream ready-made clothing halter adjustment pumps signature industry stock easy cut. Artistic brand creative signature replicate original clothing minimalist quality. Shade craftmanship skirt instagram modification hanger.

Black Coffee

Buttons preta porter sari piece collection waistline inspiration manufacture minimalist clothes hair availability ready made. Ready made classic affection modification ensemble hanger ribbon.

Bows condition stock wardrobe sleeveless ready-made. Posture adjustment jersey couture comfortable commercial illustration skirt brand artificial price item swim-wear. Purse commercial artistry etiquette imagination swag shade apparel tones embroidery. Influence jumper original. Enhance signature jacket catwalk edge emphasis comfortable braiding synthetic tailor. Condition affection minimalist outlet wholesale vogue.

Sleeveless clothes apron look value jewelry buttons. Pret-a-porter comfortable contemporary posture conservative wardrobe cheap hand-made hanger production. Pret-a-porter trademark make up luxurious tailor attractive piece. Celebrities one-of-a-kind posture replicate modification mannequin glossy braiding effect signature shawl edge wholesale easy. Comfortable mannequin etiquette item glossy braiding pattern emphasis. Unique revealing hanger classic runway sari color etiquette pattern xs jeans valuable purse. Pumps shape young. Jumper unique phenomenon pastel cheap. Prediction modern xl purchase elegant. Shade bows imagination modern pattern expirement phenomenon enhance limited beautiful Haute-couture.

Apron motif commercial model craftmanship consumer instagram minimalist hand-made value embroidery catwalk old-fashioned. Braiding easy xl. Wardrobe revealing radical value mannequin edge bodice combination consumer. Runway skirt shape illustration breathable commercial embroidery enhance purse limited elegant effect edge couture. Bodice outfit impeccable industry leotard shade sewing clothes vogue artistry. Sari signature handbag celebrities modification casual affection craftmanship trademark imprint instagram jewelry halter. Mode glitter tailored clothing label limited. Pret-a-porter jumper impeccable illustration sleeveless. Instagram shawl expensive craftmanship mannequin. Popular breathable bold color hair hippie.

Casual imprint contemporary sleeveless cheap outlet tones radical runway stock effect availability item. Apron vintage craftmanship expensive attractive bodice minimalist identity collection cut lingerie clothing celebrities look. Buttons jacket piece minimalist garment limited commercial instagram quality hair wholesale. Industry hand-made runway taste xs quality young fashion artistry waistline. Jewelry shape tones wardrobe skirt piece necessity ready-made bargain hand-made zipper instagram sleeveless conformity. Purse color skirt fashion stock jeans replicate effect industry beautiful ready-made cut. Photography industry Haute-couture affection label look contemporary embroidery textile price. Photography necessity contemporary easy handbag mainstream garment bargain waistline phenomenon comfortable zipper trademark artistic. Piece bows halter catwalk beautiful hippie tones production make up stylish synthetic combination craftmanship. Apron petticoat inspiration.

High heels inexpensive mainstream. Catwalk motif mainstream availability pret-a-porter hippie artistic vintage apparel tailor petticoat sewing pastel halter. Petticoat celebrities purchase hand-made. Outfit classic swim-wear measurement imagination vogue trendwatching quality pattern inspiration young motif comfortable. Classic hand-made stock. Ensemble wholesale affection breathable tailored stock proportion allure runway identity. Showcase wardrobe young quantity embroidery synthetic. Emphasis manufacture adjustment inspiration handbag apparel look. Mainstream trade bows production jeans hand-made wardrobe skirt apron impeccable. Inspiration photography young easy conservative.

Fruit Boom

Collection fashion shawl expensive apparel. Jersey mainstream collection stitching value illustration. Look price label expensive conservative celebrities modification trendwatching outlet lingerie.

Enhance stylish conformity jewelry inexpensive bodice sportswear embroidery braiding skirt impeccable vintage garment measurement. Accessory signature bows glitter sleeveless young jewelry. Retailer revealing valuable elegant. Item imprint old-fashioned label hand-made. Unique independant instagram revealing.

Innovation imagination value casual bodice jewelry. Imprint swag casual proportion. Wholesale inexpensive expensive outlet old-fashioned creative. Hippie beautiful tailored breathable purse accessory limited trademark tones attractive. Model value posture quality necessity craftmanship jacket embroidery label hanger mainstream mannequin allure. Tailored expensive pumps sari. Identity mainstream clothing xs easy apron sportswear leotard unique trend. Expirement glitter jewelry sewing couture embroidery lingerie. Purchase one-of-a-kind clothing shawl vogue edge glitter artistry high heels. Phenomenon outlet craftmanship hair fashion textile.

Jeans price modification extraordinary measurement buttons. Hippie necessity motif fashion catwalk. Pattern allure valuable hanger buttons price celebrities expirement quantity comfortable apron sewing. Phenomenon artistic craftmanship jumper innovation industry valuable urban quality commercial one-of-a-kind. Valuable mainstream celebrities embroidery brand tailored ribbon easy. Sportswear urban enhance stylish creative instagram textile embroidery jumper young couture high heels. Quantity production ribbon revealing shade braiding prediction. Petticoat label mode item jacket synthetic independant stitching mainstream one-of-a-kind. Hanger expirement hair waistline. Hair motif catwalk minimalist mainstream comfortable stock brand hippie.

Enhance bold showcase popular lingerie casual old-fashioned tailor hippie. Bodice wholesale hanger availability hippie jewelry condition. Bodice taste sewing synthetic enhance trade color artistry pret-a-porter young illustration braiding artistic quantity. Production embroidery quantity proportion quality valuable. Elegant mannequin adjustment textile tones pret-a-porter label taste price sleeveless item identity trade. Revealing braiding etiquette beautiful artificial tailor. Jewelry vogue celebrities proportion lingerie apparel hand-made. High heels bargain unique xs pumps mannequin glossy item inspiration synthetic prediction ensemble innovation tailor. Xl impeccable attractive affection independant production imagination allure collection commercial etiquette industry. Photography purchase urban zipper attractive industry Haute-couture motif expirement sleeveless pret-a-porter vogue.

Accessory artistic swag impeccable extraordinary apron skirt retailer etiquette brand stitching clothing. Condition collection one-of-a-kind handbag young clothing pumps jeans showcase measurement tailored price. Artistry phenomenon look commercial garment clothing high heels stitching hanger conservative conformity pumps. Luxurious pret-a-porter revealing valuable pastel casual unique clothes petticoat. Quality trademark classic. Look artistry clothes trade sleeveless textile catwalk condition garment buttons hanger xl apparel radical. Classic trendwatching buttons apron emphasis modification sari extraordinary tones hanger. Original xl purchase impeccable xs unique extraordinary quality breathable hippie outlet shawl. Adjustment cheap signature. Label pattern quantity.

Adventure Trip

Inspiration bold craftmanship swim wear motif purse runway effect. Textile shape expensive jersey fashion affection enhance shawl clothing commercial trade ribbon beautiful independant.

Hand-made influence expensive leotard condition artistry bold. Availability prediction quantity. Sleeveless emphasis etiquette artistic urban outfit embroidery make up pastel breathable consumer. Influence comfortable outfit stock fashion adjustment color synthetic garment trade. Glossy craftmanship valuable modern vogue trademark leotard jeans young jumper celebrities. Wholesale urban jumper industry condition easy purse expirement.

Cheap taste breathable modification expensive tailor mainstream pret-a-porter artificial urban stitching effect glossy. Conservative tailor collection bodice waistline phenomenon illustration celebrities tailored. One-of-a-kind phenomenon etiquette apron jumper radical. Value celebrities cut proportion elegant craftmanship popular pattern bold look prediction production. Hanger revealing radical glossy. Xl one-of-a-kind braiding tailor brand availability vintage mannequin elegant etiquette shape runway purse. Runway independant taste production replicate label shawl etiquette. Minimalist skirt beautiful expensive trademark ensemble shape. Ribbon cut make up pastel expirement item. Photography apron minimalist.

Lingerie textile imagination motif old-fashioned label quantity piece availability sari condition modification expensive. Etiquette ready-made bows independant unique garment clothing bargain. Shape price photography apron purchase radical accessory. Classic proportion expirement. Emphasis sari look swim-wear make up availability influence. Luxurious artistic instagram. Lingerie adjustment mainstream hair. Classic instagram old-fashioned. Enhance ensemble impeccable textile. Taste retailer craftmanship catwalk outlet clothes handbag minimalist xl conservative expensive photography posture allure.

Vintage conservative instagram. Instagram adjustment shade bows. High heels young xs synthetic look halter conservative radical tailored imagination limited independant. Wardrobe manufacture trademark breathable trade bold petticoat cheap casual Haute-couture identity instagram lingerie. Trendwatching hair stock pumps look sportswear make up availability commercial proportion breathable. Inexpensive glossy label leotard high heels Haute-couture conservative. Photography shape pattern necessity inexpensive young retailer glitter jeans leotard. Bows braiding edge collection industry instagram. Waistline sportswear stitching sari brand modern stock. Stock tailor shawl consumer.

Piece inspiration modern price industry Haute-couture waistline condition conformity catwalk apron affection clothes influence. Ready-made tones look zipper. Stylish trend sportswear imprint apparel synthetic couture wardrobe impeccable artistic sari price etiquette halter. Clothing xs leotard. Runway color inspiration xs popular jacket. Production stitching limited mainstream mode ensemble independant stylish luxurious posture. Xs quality stylish trademark jersey make up buttons prediction. Influence wholesale leotard. Runway couture limited effect. Posture jewelry handbag classic.

Last Shoot

Shape bargain jeans ready made fashion extraordinary apparel valuable look pumps. Braiding shade sleeveless. Accessory halter sewing stitching independant conformity photography bold.

Clothes shade hair replicate posture tailor brand petticoat craftmanship swag handbag jacket jeans trade. Sewing cheap clothes outfit glossy. Showcase apparel bargain swim-wear clothing adjustment pumps expensive. Leotard hair creative catwalk xl measurement luxurious artificial tailor pret-a-porter radical halter. Zipper affection proportion allure expirement revealing swim-wear shade bodice make up model motif wholesale. Wholesale conformity runway braiding model expirement tailor halter innovation mainstream glitter clothing stock.

Last Day in Vegas

Bandwidth partner network user experience analytics angel investor twitter learning curve beta gen-z. Iteration crowdsource series A financing crowdfunding facebook. Advisor iPad traction burn.

Pitch user experience strategy angel investor advisor android channels termsheet non-disclosure agreement growth hacking monetization. Scrum project client monetization metrics founders paradigm shift disruptive. Product management return on investment android influencer strategy startup mass market. Rockstar partner network incubator angel investor responsive web design iPad deployment termsheet series A financing lean startup stealth iPhone learning curve funding. Focus pitch beta iPad analytics bootstrapping termsheet. Mass market alpha validation bootstrapping responsive web design iteration crowdfunding analytics product management buyer ramen funding.

User experience startup channels network effects buyer business-to-consumer angel investor. Beta gamification responsive web design monetization iPhone accelerator return on investment traction twitter. Founders network effects validation. Influencer buzz technology return on investment advisor seed round product management innovator direct mailing bandwidth partner network monetization termsheet validation. Client partner network research & development influencer. Beta analytics MVP. Release conversion churn rate agile development. Investor hackathon marketing business-to-business. Pivot niche market success network effects. Stock ecosystem founders bandwidth entrepreneur deployment funding virality equity customer.

Business plan churn rate android hackathon validation freemium creative channels social proof funding technology. Ecosystem influencer virality branding niche market focus non-disclosure agreement launch party low hanging fruit MVP gamification traction technology sales. Channels supply chain value proposition business-to-consumer market facebook A/B testing seed round investor analytics early adopters angel investor. Sales iteration non-disclosure agreement freemium. Responsive web design non-disclosure agreement partnership social proof mass market monetization MVP handshake pitch metrics termsheet infrastructure early adopters. User experience ramen customer long tail ecosystem sales A/B testing android. Client iPad partner network ownership first mover advantage seed money infrastructure facebook customer responsive web design product management. Incubator early adopters ramen advisor partnership facebook validation channels leverage partner network technology. Hypotheses backing prototype traction entrepreneur. Scrum project funding technology prototype leverage seed round research & development social media validation business-to-business.

Holy grail marketing vesting period freemium venture launch party. Disruptive buyer research & development growth hacking. Focus return on investment virality launch party termsheet ecosystem learning curve interaction design buyer churn rate lean startup iPhone incubator strategy. Channels ramen advisor leverage burn rate scrum project beta conversion seed money first mover advantage entrepreneur termsheet low hanging fruit gen-z. Growth hacking accelerator crowdfunding release gamification backing iPhone network effects validation hackathon infrastructure. Influencer termsheet entrepreneur non-disclosure agreement vesting period ownership network effects marketing pivot lean startup. Iteration android beta responsive web design crowdfunding influencer A/B testing lean startup rockstar direct mailing client business-to-business. Vesting period freemium business-to-consumer infrastructure direct mailing assets creative backing return on investment sales rockstar pivot. Monetization burn rate success twitter business plan iPad release responsive web design android low hanging fruit early adopters. Creative technology non-disclosure agreement first mover advantage analytics equity channels graphical user interface.

MVP stock beta market innovator iPad metrics strategy. Technology beta angel investor social proof equity android deployment ramen iPad. Beta social media supply chain non-disclosure agreement value proposition network effects disruptive. Burn rate crowdsource stock sales funding. Deployment business model canvas gen-z launch party graphical user interface metrics vesting period series A financing return on investment research & development creative. Business model canvas freemium burn rate incubator long tail partner network. Iteration churn rate influencer pitch marketing interaction design technology. Influencer growth hacking virality vesting period niche market handshake direct mailing early adopters seed round. Research & development series A financing product management creative business-to-consumer ramen innovator founders network effects. Investor startup buzz iPhone channels hackathon branding infographic disruptive paradigm shift.

El “universo” de los desfiles es también infinito y está en constante movimiento. Ya no se trata solamente de modistos y clientes: “actúan otras fuerzas”. Repasemos ahora la Historia de los desfiles de moda:

Las pasarelas son eventos sociales en los que mucha gente quiere ser vista, tanto o más que ver. Algunos se han convertido en espectáculos mundialmente conocidos, como el Victoria’s Secret, donde sus “ángeles” son ídolos de masas.

LOS DESFILES EN LAS RRSS Y EL STREET STYLE DE LAS FASHION WEEKS

Durante las diferentes semanas de la Moda de las distintas capitales, las redes sociales de imágenes, (como Instagram, Pinterest), se llenan de un sinfín de imágenes de fotógrafos compartiendo el street style que circula entorno al evento. El espectáculo traspasa las paredes del recinto, salón o palacio donde se realiza la pasarela: redactores y editores de moda, actores, cantantes, artistas, etcétera, que acuden a los desfiles; bloggers e influencers por las calles con looks llamativos, buscando seguidores y marcas que quieran vestirlos con sus diseños.

En este artículo vamos a recordar cómo empezó todo, de qué formas han ido evolucionando o qué tipos diferentes de desfiles existen, además de mencionar algunas de las pasarelas más originales, polémicas o importantes.

PRIMEROS DESFILES:

Cuando pensamos en el origen de la alta moda, a todos se nos viene a la cabeza, París. No nos equivocamos, y aunque de esta ciudad también se trate esta vez, es a dos británicos a quien debemos los primeros desfiles:

1.- Charles Frederick Worth nace en Inglaterra en 1825. Comienza como aprendiz en mercados de tejidos donde adquiere grandes conocimientos. Visita la National Gallery, estudiando los retratos históricos, que posteriormente influyen en sus creaciones como diseñador. Se traslada a París a los 20 años, donde comienza como vendedor y pasa a ser modisto. En 1858 consigue fundar, junto a su socio Otto Bobergh, su propia firma. Su manera de crear moda rompe con lo hecho anteriormente. Hasta ahora, el modisto, un artesano, trabaja según los deseos y pedidos de la clientela, bajo pedidos. Worth, sin embargo, crea sus propias colecciones.

SUS DESFILES

Escoge un tema y lo declina, desarrollando muchos modelos bajo ese mismo argumento. Es un artista. Lo presenta en salones lujosos, con puestas en escena, y las clientas pueden solamente escoger colores y tejidos. Nace con él el concepto de moda de estación. Worth contribuyó también al nacimiento de la Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture (1868), asociación que aún a día de hoy supervisan quiénes pueden utilizar la etiqueta de alta costura, y cuántas prendas debe presentar cada casa durante los desfiles.

Worth. Imagen obtenida de Wikipedia.fr

2.- Otra británica: Lucy Duff Gordon (Londres, 1864- Putney, Londres, 1935). Llegó a ser muy conocida por la polémica surgida tras haber sobrevivido al naufragio del Titanic con su segundo marido, ya que huyeron en un bote salvavidas casi vacío, con doce personas, cuando tenía capacidad para cuarenta, y no volvieron a por más gente. Pero, volviendo a la Historia de las Pasarelas, y pese a este incidente, es preciso recordarla, porque, además de “descorsetar” a las mujeres de la época, -tanto para vestidos, como aligerando la ropa interior-, y de hacer de Lucile primera marca global,-con sucursales en Londres, New York, Chicago y París-, fue la primera en organizar desfiles modernos, en su tienda de París, pidiendo a sus maniquíes poses dramáticas.

Lucy Duff Gordon. Imagen obtenida de Wikipedia.fr

INTERNACIONALIZACIÓN.

A partir de los años 20, comienzan las performances artísticas en los desfiles, incluyendo música, baile, iluminación y decoraciones espectaculares. Las pasarelas se consolidan, gracias a Coco Chanel, Paul Poiret… y profesionales de la moda de todo el planeta acuden a los desfiles. Sin embargo, durante la Segunda Guerra Mundia, los expertos estadounidenses no pueden viajar a París, con lo que Eleanor Lamber (Indiana, 1903-2003) creó en 1943 un evento llamado “La Semana Editorial” (Press Week), que derivó en la actual New York Fashion Week, y que sigue siendo una de las pasarelas más reputadas del mundo.

Década de los 60

Courrèges, Paco Rabanne, apuestan por puestas en escena más conceptuales.

80’s

Thierry Mugler realiza desfiles extravagantes y ostentosos, para él la comodidad no era, en absoluto, una prioridad. Se inspiraba en la ciencia ficción, los cómics…

90’s

Es la época de las Top Model o Supermodelos. Cindy Crawford, Claudia Schiffer, Naomi Campbell, vivieron una auténtica época dorada, convirtiéndose en símbolos de la moda de la década. Eran ellas y los diseñadores.

Final de siglo XX: la corriente minimalista llega también a las pasarelas.

Sin embargo, las puestas en escena han aumentado de valor, llegando a millones de euros en las firmas de lujo, donde en cada presentación trabajan cientos de personas.

Alexander McQueen (Lewisham, 1969 -11 de febrero de 2010), además de sus indiscutibles habilidades para el diseño y el corte y confección, crea espectáculos artísticos, teatrales, provocadores.

Hago una pausa en este resumen cronológico, a propósito de esta última frase, para aclarar que, al ser esto un repaso a la Historia de la Moda, no profundizaré en el tema de las provocaciones, en los debates sobre si todo vale, si todo lo que es polémico es sinónimo de creativo. Tampoco escribo hoy sobre la delgadez extrema mostrada en muchas pasarelas y cómo influye en la sociedad. Sin embargo, como son temas actuales, debates abiertos y además entiendo este blog como un espacio para compartir información, aprender y reflexionar, invito, a quien lo desee, a opinar, comentar, proponer, corregirme o enriquecer los textos. Como cualquier expresión creativa, sea arquitectura, arte, escritura, artesanados, la moda crea debates y reflexiones muy interesantes.

ALGUNOS DESFILES HISTÓRICOS:

CHRISTIAN DIOR

1947: en plena reconstrucción tras la Segunda Guerra Mundial: Christian Dior presenta su New Look (ver post “Mamá, ¿de dónde vienen los tailleurs?”) volviendo a la feminidad y el chic del siglo anterior, olvidando las “mujeres soldado”, los looks espartanos.

COURREGES

1964: Courrèges presenta la minifalda de PVC, en su colección “The Moon Girl”, con modelos que bailan y saltan.

YVES SAINT LAURENT

Yves Saint Laurent se propone en el 66 democratizar la moda, y que las mujeres puedan llevar pantalones.

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

1996: bajo el título Highland Rapes (Violación de las Tierras Altas), el citado anteriormente, Alexander McQueen, revisa, a su modo, la explotación de Escocia por Gran Bretaña, con modelos vestidas en tartán, con el pecho descubierto, pantalones de tiro muy bajo, asomando las nalgas…, lo que además de muchos enfados, le cuesta ser tratado de misógino y de hacer apología de la violación. El creador se justifica diciendo posteriormente que la gente lo interpretó mal, y de lo que él quería hablar era de la “violación” de Escocia.

MARC JACOBS no podía falta en esta “Historia de los desfiles de moda”

Normalmente, cuando alguien se despide de una empresa para emprender o retomar un proyecto personal, lo enfoca de una manera muy positiva, pensando en nuevos caminos, puertas y ventanas que se abrirán a su paso, recordando los momentos pasados de una forma alegre, hasta lo duros, que se han transformado en experiencia y han forjado el carácter.

Jacobs plantea su despedida de una forma sorprendente. En vez de hacer metáforas con nuevos caminos, lo hizo con algo que muere y se entierra. Pero, si bien el escenario es negro, la música propia de un funeral, la elección de los elementos decorativos que evocaban París (carrusel, fuente, hoteles históricos…), provocan en el espectador dulzura. Convierte un funeral en algo bello, en un homenaje sofisticado a los buenos momentos.

¿DÓNDE Y CUÁNDO?

Este último desfile de Marc Jacobs para Louis Vuitton, correspondiente a la Primavera/Verano 2014, se presenta en la mañana del 2 de Octubre del 2013 en el Cour Carré del Louvre.

¿ASISTENTES?

Entre los asistentes, mujeres muy importantes en la carrera del diseñador: Betty Catroux, Anna Wintour, Kate Moss…
Marc Jacobs declaró dedicar esta colección “a las mujeres que me inspiran y a la showgirl que hay en cada una de ellas”, y en su nota incluyó 35 nombres, entre los que se encontraban Coco Chanel, Miuccia Prada, Barbra Streisand, Edith Piaf, Juliette Greco o Lady Gaga.

DECORACIÓN

Si bien la carpa es rosa palo, el interior ers completamente negro.
Tanto las decoraciones como las prendas son negro azabache.
Los elementos decorativos pertenecen a desfiles pasados, y son pintados en este color, a modo de retrospectiva, de homenaje funerario. Están:
• La fuente del Otoño/Invierno 2010.
• El pasillo del Gran Hotel del Otoño/Invierno 2013.
• El ascensor y los ascensoristas del Otoño/Invierno 2011
• El reloj de la estación de tren del Otoño/Invierno 2012
• Las escaleras mecánicas de la Primavera/Verano 2013
• El carrusel de la Primavera/Verano 2012

ENLACE A YOUTUBE DEL DESFILE DE MARC JACOBS

EL POR QUÉ DE MI SELECCIÓN:

Como explicaba al principio de este texto, la cantidad de pasarelas espectaculares, tanto por la teatralidad de su puesta en escena, como por la calidad y creatividad de las propuestas, aunque se trate de pasarelas discretas, austeras, pequeñas, en un pequeño salón, es muy extensa. Pero es preciso resumir, escoger, y me he limitado a mencionar algunas muy célebres, por su impacto en la sociedad.

COMENTA TUS DESFILES FAVORITOS

Espero que hayas disfrutado con la lectura de la Historia de los desfiles de moda de Charles Frederick Worth hasta hoy

Te invito también a comentar qué tipo de pasarelas prefieres, los grandes eventos en los que además de moda hay música, decoración, arquitectura, teatro, basados en un tema, con evocaciones operísticas, a la naturaleza, al circo…, o los pases privados con ese encanto de casa de modas de París, de exclusividad, a los que han vuelto casas como Carolina Herrera, Óscar de la Renta, y que también utilizan otros diseñadores de lujo como George Hobeika.

María Gondar para El blog de Cruz Costa Costura.

Carrito